Kylerhea and Ardintoul.

A glorious morning greeted us and a still calm bay, one of those days that you are glad to be alive. After yesterdays rain and grey sky it was sure nice to walk in shorts and tee shirts and hardly see a cloud. No midges as yet, touch wood.
Another mega breakfast would keep us going for most of the day and standing outside the B and B we listened to the Oyster Catchers, Lapwings and of course the Black Headed Gulls.
The Otters were busy and there are no shortage of them in this neck of the woods.
When you live inland for most of the year it is a joy to experience the coastal smells, sounds of sea water and the clean air. and we were not disappointed.

The village road is only short and you can walk from one side to the other in 10 minutes. Today it took us about an hour to almost get through. This was because people were stopping us and wanting to chat. Local people who were interested to know what we were doing and where we were staying.
A lady with an Otter Hound and an Italian Spinone and a chap who had just moved to Glenelg a year ago who was re- kindling his hobby of Infra red photography were very interesting people and we could have talked for ages. The garden menagerie with the Emu's also stopped us.

We were in no rush but we did have to move on. Passing the Barracks for a second time we crossed a marshy field and over 2 bridges to reach the hamlet that is Bernera. A couple of guys were flying a drone which was good to watch for a minute or two. A signposted paths leads through Glen Bernera and eventually winds its way to Ardintoul point. We was going to make this a circular route but there was quite a large logging operation going on so decided we would make it a linear walk.

Carrying on along the minor road to the Kylerhea ferry, the views open up down the Sound of Sleat with the hills of Eigg and Rum visible. At the ferry terminus a few people watched and waited for the ferry to arrive whilst people in Motorhomes enjoyed the views from their deckchairs.

The ferry is run by local people and funding is hard to come by to keep it running. So if you are in the area then please do the same as we did and take a trip over to Skye and back just for the hell of it. Return fare for 2 people is £8.
Lots of history about the ferry which dates back to the early 1700's can be found here and is worth a read.

On Skye, we headed for the bay on the left where we found a footpath through a meadow leading to a rocky promontory. Again there were Otters and no wonder there is an Otter sanctuary a little further up the coast. We sat and drank in the atmosphere and of course a cup of coffee.

The ferry came and went during our brief period of R and R and when it next set off we too set off to meet it to take us back. We were the only ones to take this return journey and the crew were literally laid back.

The path behind the ferry carpark is where we went and its a decent track for most of the way with fantastic views out across Kyle Rhea. Lots of deciduous woodland, so the birdlife can be heard as you walk which makes a pleasant change from the huge spruce forests further up the hillside.

Markers had been put out for a running event called The Dirty Thirty , so the route is obviously well used. At a descent to a small, narrow glen we stopped in the shade of the ferns and silver birch and had a wash in the cold waterfall. Very reviving and welcome, the afternoon was certainly a hot one.

With the views across Loch Alsh we thought what a great spot to wild camp but a decent camp spot was not too obvious until dropping down to Ardintoul but then the height has been lost and the views not as fantastic. But still, this is a marvellous area to walk. Doing the full loop from Shiel Bridge - Ardintoul- Glenelg_Shiel Bridge Via Suardalen or Bealachasan would be a fantastic few days out.

As i wrote earlier, we were going to do our walk as a circular but as we approached Ardintoul we turned and retraced our steps. Luckily, just as we came out of the forestry back at the ferry carpark we saw our first Sea Eagle. It made our day.

Route 22.5km.
Time, as long as you want it to be.Why rush a good thing.

Bernera Barracks built 1720-25

By far the largest buildings in the area, Bernera Barracks is one of four such structures built in Scotland during the early 1700’s by the Hanovarian Government to suppress the Jacobites. The other three barracks are at Kiliwhimen (Fort Augustus)  at the western end of Loch Ness, at Ruthven in Badenoch and at Inversnaid near Ben Lomond.

Bernera was built to house a garrison of up to 200 soldiers and is strategically located to control the sea crossing at Kylerhea. The officers did not live in the barracks but were accommodated in a row of buildings, which still exist but are now private houses, located opposite the Glenelg shop and known locally as the Officers Quarters. 

In 1719 at the time of the abortive Spanish invasion: a regiment of Marines from Naples landed at Eilean Donan to support a larger landing in the south of England which never materialised. The Spaniards and the Highlanders who joined them were defeated in Glenshiel: the marines were repatriated with honour. The building work started soon after this. 

Much of the stone was robbed from the brochs in Gleann Beag.

The real purpose of the barracks was to guard the road to the isles and discourage rustling and blackmail: it served as a de-luxe police station for Highland companies like the Black Watch, who introduced the entirely novel idea that it was wrong to nip over to Glenshiel and steal cows even if you don't beat the owner to death!

By 1800, rooms in the barracks were available to rent at one pound per year. By 1830 the barracks had become a poor house for the local area and thereafter the buildings fell into their present ruinous condition. In the 1990's, plans were lodged to renovate the buildings but at present they remain in a somewhat dangerous condition and are now fenced off for the safety of the public. 

A little known legacy of the barracks, is the military road constructed over the Mam Ratagan to Glen Shiel, parts of which are still in use today.

Considering the history surrounding these buildings it is such a shame that they are being allowed to crumble. Another good winter and i'm sure the gables will be gone. 

Info: Glenelg.
Castles

 Whilst in Glenelg it is also worth spending a few minutes taking a look at the War Memorial. An absolutely beautiful statue considering the village is so small.

Sculptor was Louis Reid Deuchars and the sponsor was Lady Scott of Eileanreach.

Unveiled in 1920 at a cost of £2560 13s 6d 

Note to TGO Challengers. 

The memorial is located on a headland and it is possible to camp on some decent grassy areas which surround three sides. The position would give a very short walk, 3-4 minutes to the pub and to the shop to signout.

Gleann Beag and the Brochs.

With a 3 course breakfast under or should i say over our belts we chatted with Maggie about what we were doing today (Saturday). We wanted to visit the 3 Brocks which are located down Gleann Beag and then rise to the bealach and hopefully get a view down towards Loch Hourn.

The day was really miserable weather. It had rained heavy all night and hammered on the roof light to the point of distraction for Sheila whereas i didn't hear a thing.
Maggie said we will be back by 7pm or she will send out a rescue party. We made a flask of coffee, donned full wet gear and set off south along the bay.

Only 5 minutes had passed before we realised we had forgotten to make a reservation for evening meal in the pub, so had to retrace our steps and head into the village. The pub was closed obviously, but the chef was busy, cheffing i expect, and took our requirements down for Saturday and Sunday nights meals.
Because of the weather we had decided to stay a couple of more nights in the B and B instead of camping.

So back south we went. Passing motorists gave us that smile, you know the one where the smile means "Look at them daft beggars out in this weather". Or words to that effect.

We spotted an Otter not far off shore and watched it until it dived, Oyster Catchers were noisy and followed us down the bay.

Reaching the bridge over the Abhainn a Glinne Bhig near Eilanreach we paused and watched the river. Fast flowing, white water, high and noisy. Scary even. The sign at the bridge said cafe at Corran open except for Saturdays. Glad we had visited yesterday.

Its a good single track road down Gleann Beag, for a couple of miles anyway. Just the odd one or two cars passed us throwing up plumes of water as they went.
Water falls were everywhere but in the distance we could hear the sound of a big one. It eventually came into view across the glen. It was Eas Mor Chul an Duin in spate. It's a big fall although because of the trees the views are limited. If this was in the Lake District it would be crowded with a car park.

 A road side stream.

Eas Mor Chul an Duin, taken on zoom across the glen.

The first Broch we came to was Dun Telve which is in decent condition considering the many years of robbing stones for field walls and homes.

The Brochs here at Corrary are the best Brocks on the Scottish mainland. The Iron Age structures are fortified homesteads built between the 4th century BC and the 1st century AD.This wall still rises 7 metres. The original entrance can be clearly seen and it is still possible to walk between the inner and outer walls, again clearly seen because of the robbing out.

This broch and the next one at Dun Trodden were excavated in 1914 and 1922, the serious plundering of the stone was done in 1722 when the Barracks were built at Bernera. We will visit that later.

Dun Trodden (image below) was built on a slightly higher position.

Both of these brochs commanded great views both up and down the glen. The inner passageways are easier to see on the shot above but again lots of the stone has been robbed out. 

Just as we were leaving we had a short break from the rain and as luck has it there was a sign for a cafe. We couldn't find it and then a car pulled up so we asked. It was just our bad luck that the people who used to run the cafe here are now the proprietors of the Glenelg Community Hall cafe and so this one has now closed. Shame really as it is in a nice spot for TGO Challengers to take 5 minutes.

Carrying on down the glen we passed the chambered cairn and then suddenly we came to a large bridge across a river with a house to our left. I checked the map and was a bit in a quandary as no large bridge across the river was marked on the map and we were not meant to cross it. As it happened we were at NG843166 and because the side stream was in high spate i had mistaken it for the main river.   

Once across the bridge it was an obvious track up to Balvraid and then another Km or so up to the 3rd broch Dun Grugaig.

Dun Grugaig is built on much more rugged landscape and is D shaped rather the circular.Some experts think it may be a prototype broch or semi broch. I just think they built it taking into account the rough ground they were building on.

A survey was carried out in the 1700's but so far it has not been excavated.

 The view back down Gleann Beag from Dun Grugaig.

 What's left of Dun Grugaig.

We had planned to go up to the Bealach but it was raining and low cloud was covering it so decided it wouldn't be worth the effort as a view down Loch Hourn would not be visible. 

We had coffee and lunch as it was now 2.00pm and retraced our route back to the coast. 

View down the sound from Eilanreach.

14km total.

Corran and Sandaig

We had time to spare and chose to spend it doing a quick trip down to Corran and then a similar quick trip to Sandaig. The peaceful home of Gavin Maxwell, Author of Ring of Bright Water.
Corran is at the end of the drivable road and where an old coastal path can be found. Corran is now a quiet backwater but it used to be a bustling place during the Herring boom times.

We parked next to the Ceilidh House which is a recently built structure, unlocked and visitors are welcome to enjoy the historical information about the village.

Leaving the Ceilidh House we crossed the bridge and found Sheena's tea hut at the last house in the row of whitewashed cottages. Quite an unusual tea hut to say the least. The lady running it now is the daughter of Sheena. The "room" is basically a shed adorned with all the fixtures of an old parlour. A sofa, coffee table, lamps with shades, pictures hanging on the wall and a pot belly stove. The choice of food is quite amazing considering the position of the place and the size of it. Apart from what you would normally expect from a tea room, Sheena's does fish and chips too.
The wind rose quite a bit as we sat enjoying our tea, the pictures were rattling and eventually one crashed down. The others quickly removed for safe keeping.

The Ceilidh House left and the Old Post Office. Signpost directing to the start of the coast path.

Taken from outside the tea hut.

The old coastal path is man made although now a bit worse for wear in places. It was built during the Herring Boom but was probably there prior to that. I am told it is possible to walk the whole way to Kinloch Hourn but the pathway stops after about 2.5 miles at Allt na Larach, and having not done it myself i cannot guarantee what it's like underfoot. 

Our next port of call was Sandaig, a renowned spot for the follower of Gavin Maxwell and his otters. 

The track down to the bay from the road would once have been relatively pleasant, walking through forestry but now it is a mass of cut down trees and the detritus that is left after the logging has finished. 

On the way down to Sandaig Bay with Beinn Sgritheall just becoming clear of cloud 

for a few minutes.

The Maxwell House, no pun intended, was known as Camusfearna. This sadly burned to the ground in 1968 and there is a memorial cairn marking the position where Maxwells writing desk stood within the building. His ashes are under the great rock.

With time running out and the weather showing signs of rapid deterioration we had no time to explore, we made haste for the car. Getting to and from Sandaig Bay takes longer than it actually looks on the map and we only just made it before the heavens opened. 

Onwards and Upwards.

Our first B and B in Scotland was in Glenelg. A small village but absolutely beautiful. First we had to get there which is quite a drive from home. Some 400 miles.
We stopped overnight at the Travelodge at Stirling junction 9 which was very good and took advantage of the Eat all you can Curry night at the Pirnhall Inn. I must say that i din't go back for a second helping. The first was big enough and great value for money at £6.95.

We had a bit of a detour through Glasgow at rush hour after missing the turn off for the M73 due to the massive road works with the M74, junction 5. I never want to repeat this mistake.

We was going to get breakfast at the Pirnhall Inn but neither of us were hungry after the filling evening meal and decided we would wait until we got to Spean Bridge and then get brunch at the Bridge Cafe.
Just as we turned off the A9 at Dalwhinnie we think we saw our first TGO Challengers crossing a field near the distillary. It was raining, so hoods were up and we couldn't recognise them.

The drive to Spean Bridge from Dalwhinnie is really pleasant and the rain stopped. The Bridge cafe was quiet and we ordered coffee and a bacon roll each. The coffee came, which we drank, then we checked out the loo's and the paintings and the newspapers and 30 minutes after we ordered, the rolls arrived. I think they forgot us and wondered why we looked like inspectors.

The drive to Glenelg was magic. The Mam Rattagan pass was better than i expected, but i wouldn't like to take a caravan up or down it.
Our B and B, was easily found and it turned out to be a first class place to stay. Called Marabhaig and run by Maggie Cameron and hubby John.
Maggie doesn't have a website but the phone number is 01599522327 and has supported the TGO Challengers for 20+ years. Pick up from Shiel Bridge can be arranged with her but there is a local bus service which meets the City link Bus and leaves Shiel Bridge at around 12.15pm.

Breakfast is as good as you will find anywhere. TGO sign out at the local shop is less than 10 minute walk away where you will also find the only pub. The Glenelg Inn. Evening meals need to be booked in advance and we were told that it is essential to book especially at weekends.

The view from our room at the B and B across the bay to Skye.

John was involved in Farming so we could have talked for hours. His Zetor parked outside the house.

Off to Scotland.

Later today when Sheila finishes work we will make our way North on a journey i don't enjoy. However, it does mean we will be on Scotlands west coast by tomorrow evening, so there is a reward.
Tonight we will stay at the Travel lodge at Stirling junction 9 and tomorrow head off via Spean Bridge to Glenelg.
There will be some backpacking and also some base camping, B and B's and a little tourista.
How it all flows together will be done by seat of the pants decisions based around the weather forecasts. But as always, once we get to Glenelg we will chill out and enjoy this wonderful part of the world.

posted from Bloggeroid

A Champion in the wings.

On May 7th there was a road run from Coniston Village to Barrow in Furness. A distance of 21 miles or 33.8km's .
It was  an all ages race and the first Junior to finish was Alfie Rousseau Thorpe from The Square Cafe in Broughton in Furness, in 6th place overall. (Yellow tee shirt pictured centre in the photo below.)
He did the race in 3 hours and 13 minutes and he's only just turned 13 years of age. How amazing is that with over 1000 entrants.

Well done Alfie, we will watch your progress.

(You don't look as though you have run 1 mile in the photo)

TGO Challenge 2016

Where did that year go. I don't even think i have read all the blog posts about the 2015 crossings yet. Time stands still for no man, the saying says, and it seems to speed up the older i get. Why this happens i am not sure.
But it is now upon us, like it or not, ready or not. The stalwarts will have all the gear packed and improved on from many previous crossings whilst first timers will be checking and re-checking and will probably have some apprehension of what may lie ahead.
The good thing about the Challenge is the assistance you get from other challengers, the organising folk and from the general public.
Getting to the end is a magic feeling which has to be experienced.

So to all 2016 Challengers, may the sun God be with you and enjoy yourselves. That's the main thing.

Custom Cone Windshield for Meths stoves.

Thanks to JJ for the heads up  on this new split cone windshield.

I have a cone windshield already for my 600ml Evernew pot and i am more than happy with it. However when i come to need a bigger capacity pot for when two of us are backpacking i fudge the windshield to suit.

Then after numerous emails to JJ about cones, i decided to get one of these custom made split cones which is designed around my 1.1L Toaks pot. It was on ebay here.

So today i tried it out with my 12-10 stove. I didn’t purchase the stove that is otherwise supplied with it.
It boiled 500ml of tap water in almost exactly the same time as it does with my smaller cone 7.6 minutes.
The nice thing about having the split cone is that it all fits very neatly into the pot and therefore eliminates  a possible 2nd container.
Here are a few photo’s that show the cone and the total impressive weight of 232 grams all in.

The two halves of the cone are easily put together and are well engineered.

The total weight included.
Toaks 1.1L pot and lid.
12 - 10 burner and protective cover/douser.
Split cone windshield.
Ground heat reflector.
There was still plenty of room in the pot left to put in a fire stick and a small bottle of meths and a J cloth.(Not a JJ cloth, thats something completely different)