Northumberland Coast Path Pt. 3.

Boulmer to Dunstanburgh Castle. Day 3.  16th March 2020.

Sorry to be leaving Boulmer but looking forward to what today has to offer. It looks great on the map.
A good track leaves the tarmac and the grass is manicured. Notices point out all the usual things. No Parking, No Fires, No Camping etc

What has been very noticeable so far, is that the Coast path is well used, well publicised but i'm not sure the community actually wants you there. There is very little opportunity to legally camp. So many of the myriad of caravan parks don't allow overnight camping or any camping for that matter and getting to campsites that will allow you to pitch are far from the path. Illegal camping does take place in the dunes but you have to pick your spot carefully as the tide rises fast and right up to the dunes. I don't understand the mentality of not allowing backpackers.

The walk is beautiful and then you turn a corner, cross a stream and your faced with Howdiemont sands and further on Sugar Sands. Both absolutely idillic. The locals don't want it to become well know. It's their bit of heaven. We lingered here a while just taking in the view.

Again we hit the beach rather than staying high on the official path which goes through the dunes and the beach car park.

Stunning Howdiemont Bay above Sugar Sands

From the beach we headed up to the path proper and followed it to crossing the Howick Burn by a solidly built bridge for such a small stream.

Howick Burn Bridge.

 Just managed to sort the camera out in time to take this plane shot.

 Still on a good path we passed some small intriguing rocky coves and Rumbling Kern before passing Seahouses Farm on the right and then the grand holiday let on the right called The Bathing House . As it happened walking enthusiast and photographer Andrew Locking from Cumbria was staying here when we passed, but we didn't know that at the time.

The Bathing House holiday let.

Between the Bathing House and Craster the path is good and high. Numerous cliff faces are passed with hundreds of birds nesting. We met a few dog walkers along this stretch all very chatty.

 Fulmers Nesting.

 Approaching Craster with a view of Dunstanburgh Castle.

We were glad to reach Craster, I was starving. Sheila decided to try a Craster Kipper barm cake. She had never had one before. I did try a bit but I usually get indigestion from them.

The pub was in a grand position with large balcony overlooking the bay. I bet its packed in the summer, the path goes through the grounds.

Plenty of people were milling around the harbour. We found a bench and had a late lunch. I noticed at the side of the harbour garage, a familiar machine. An MF 30 E tractor loader made where I worked in Stretford. I forgot to get the serial number because I could have had a hand in its construction.

Sheila must of wondered where I had got to as I was missing for about 10 minutes checking this machine out.
Now back to the walk.

 An arty view of the castle from the harbour. (I couldn't get everything level).

Craster Harbour with darkening skies.

The sign in Craster said that the castle was closed. So we walked up to it and around it up to the point where the sheer drop of the east side puts a halt to progress.

We saw quite a bit of it and to be honest I wouldn't pay the asking price to go inside if it had been open.

Beyond the castle is the golf links where we stopped for the day and returned to base.

The ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle.
English Heritage would make more money keeping it open during daylight hours and just putting a donation box at the gate. Its not in a fantastic state anyway and not worth the money in my opinion.

Todays route.

Northumberland Coast Path. Boulmer tractors.

Boulmer. Start Day 3. Tractors only.

Boulmer, pronounced Boomer. Turned out to be a good stopping point. The pub was good, lively, friendly. The locals support the pub and with it being an agricultural area, the subject of tractors came up in conversation.
Sheila and I were invited to sit with a few of them and we chatted late into the evening.
The landlord even bought us both a beer. Very kind. We will return there when all this virus trouble is over.

It turned out we were in tractor heaven. There were many and one which you don't see too often.

A Fordson Super Major 2 wheel drive. built between 1961 and 64.

 Ford TW-20. 4 wheel drive. 1979-83. A bigger tractor than it looks at 150hp.

 And the gem. A Muir Hill, beast of a machine, not seen too often. Made in Old Trafford Manchester between 1972-83. Pity it wasn't a 141 model as I've never seen one. The company used to make narrow gauge trains prior to tractors.

 Renault 175-74. 4 wheel drive. Built 1989 to 72. 160hp. Powerful machine.

Massey Ferguson 7720 tractor. 185hp. 4 wheel drive. Built in AGCO plant in Beauvais France. A plant that I know very well. This belongs to a farmer I was talking to last night.

Now to get on with the walk.

Northumberland Coast Path. Pt.2

Alnmouth to Boulmer.  Day 2. 15th March 2020.

NCP - The bridge across the River Aln. 

 Redshank

After yesterdays glorious weather we were pleased that todays weather was similar. It was clear skies, bright, but hellishly windy and cold. That cold that cuts you in half. We had quite a few layers on.

Alnmouth was quiet but parking here is very limited. The chances of parking in the town are almost nil but there is some parking along the beach just off the golf course.

Walking around Alnmouth is worth doing and it won't take long. Lots of historic buildings. At this time of year there wasn't much open anywhere except a few coffee shops so we had to give one a try. The Old Bakery, they had gunpowder green tea so a pot of that was had and an extremely large tea cake which we shared.

Alnmouth Village.

We came across what must be the smallest museum in UK. The Old Ferryman's hut. Lots of memorabilia and photographs of when the ferry took people across the Aln river.

The ferry which rowed 6 people max across the river stopped in the 1960's when John Brown retired. 

His hut now a museum.

Alnmouth golf club invites non members into the cafe for refreshments and from there you can pick up the coast path.
Again, as yesterday, there is the official path or the beach plod. Today is was a bit of both. The middle section of todays walk is effected by the tide so a quick look at the tide times before setting off can be advantageous and save a back track.

The golf course section is quite hilly and I guess these players are fit guys. We chose the beach again but at times we did have to go through the course.

On the beach it got very windy so it was good to find shelter at times within the dunes. The golf course had loads of signs up which were not welcoming unlike the signs at the club house where you were spending money.
Plenty of people out today, guided walking groups and loads of dog walkers.

 Working our way around the bunkers. 

 Along the way there are numerous caravan parks and although most were closed the outside water taps were still working. Very helpful on a warm day or a backpack.

 Beach Art

 A less windy spot for lunch

 Common Ringed Plover

On the approach to Boulmer the tide in the Haven was out and a couple of boats were grounded. Fishermen were digging for bait. Boulmer is the home to an RAF base and has an inshore lifeboat station manned by volunteers.

Boulmer is a small village but in the summer its numbers swell with the caravan park and numerous holiday cottages. The one pub, The Fisherboat Inn is a friendly place with good beer and great food. An overnight stay at the pub is a bit on the expensive side though.
We had our first base in the village.

Northumberland Coast Path Pt.1

The NCP is a medium distance coastal walk of some 100km. It officially starts in Cresswell and ends in Berwick-Upon-Tweed. Because it is a coastal path walk it's easy for folk, depending on time availability to tailor it as needed.

After an illness which has taken over our lives for a year, it was good to be making new ground.
We started in a place called Amble and finished in the village of Belford. The start was our choice but the premature end was due to the Covid 19 lockdown and our enforced return home.

We didn't backpack this trip we used a fixed base, well two fixed bases as it turned out. From these bases we planned routes which could be done with the help of public transport, our own car or just circular walks.

Walk 1. Amble to Alnmouth. March 14th 2020.

If ever there is a place not to start the NCP it has to be Amble. It's a sprawling place, old and forgotten. Remnants of past industry, especially coal can still be seen. It used to be a thriving port but now just a few fishing boats. From the harbour you can get trips to Coquet Island with its lighthouse.

We didn't get a good feeling as we walked through Amble with its small groups of youths smoking weed. The smell drifting around you. It makes me feel sick. We were constantly looking over our shoulders and were pretty pleased to get out of Dodge and onto the main road.

The modernised Harbour at Amble

The road and the path follows the River Coquet upstream as far as Warkworth where it leaves the river, crosses the medieval bridge and heads for the dunes.
Warkworth is a beautiful village and the first thing that pulls you there is the constant view of the Castle. The Castle was closed but we walked around the grounds.

Warkworth Castle

Walking down the hill into the centre, there are many fine houses, a couple of pubs and a few local shops. Lots of property is owned by Coquet holiday homes and that's why villages are dying.

The church of St. Lawrence was open so we had a look inside. It dates back to AD 737. King Ceowulf of Northumbria granted it to the monks of Lindisfarne.
The later Norman tower is leaning quite a bit, a bit like Pisa, and a later steeple has been added.

The leaning tower of Warkworth.

Passed the church reveals the pleasant riverside, well kept and a pleasure to stop on one of the many benches and have a brew. Its a popular spot for locals and visitors alike.
The good thing here to note was that the parking by the river was free and no time restrictions. However the point was made that no accommodation vehicles were aloud. A posh way of saying "no camper vans or caravans."

The medieval bridge is wonderful and so is its arched gate house.

 The River Coquet at Warkworth

We spent quite a bit of time in Warkworth and we wished we had time to stay over night and explore a bit more. Next time.

Across the main road the path leads to another car park, then down across a golf course and here you can decide if you want to keep to the official path or take to the beach. For us the best way is to go with the beach. The beach is expansive and has good views south to Coquet Island and our route ahead to the north.
Its always hard going walking on sand but the atmosphere of being in such a wide open landscape is breathtaking. The smells of the sea, the sound of the birds, it's just paradise.  And so lucky with the weather.

The coast at Warkworth.

The beach was quite empty and it wasn't until we started to approach Alnmouth that numbers of people started to increase. Between us and Alnmouth stands the River Aln. There was no quick way across it. The ferry finished years ago. We headed up to a religious cross we could see on a hillside to our left and decided to take a break with such lovely views.
The cross is well made and its dated AD 684. Not original obviously.

The word Cuthbert can just be made out with 684AD clear below. 

I guess this stone came from the church.

History says that at this point St. Cuthbert agreed to become Bishop of Lindisfarne when petitioned by the king.
To get over to Alnmouth we had to backtrack along a good bridleway until rejoining the official coast path along the road, over the bridge and into Alnmouth town.
St. Cuthbert's old church is still to be seen but roofless.

Our coast walk route in black. The official route is the red diamond linked line.

An 80th birthday visit to Duddon Valley.

The Duddon Valley in Cumbria is my second home, or is it my first? I'm not sure really as from the 1980's I have spent so much of my time there.
I have fixed many tractors and excavators for different farmers there and I must have done a good job as they still talk to me. I have house sat and looked after pets, helped with sheep gathering, clipping, bailing, wrapping, dipping, lambing, calving, tree felling, gutter digging, walling, bar tending, fell race marshalling and much more. The friends we have in the valley are genuine people, who work hard and never forget what you have done for them. We love being there.

We were invited to a locals 80th birthday party, a friend we have known for about 30 years. Of course we wanted to go, we wouldn't have missed that for anything.

However the doo was to be held in the Newfield Inn, Seathwaites only pub. Unfortunately the management team had decided to leave the pub and so it was touch and go as to if the event would happen. Fortunately the owners of the pub are also customers and therefore did everything possible to give the octogenarian his party.

The owners of the Newfield Inn John and Gayle, reluctantly now running the pub again. At least for 2020 anyway. Many folk are very pleased.

The pub was closed to the general public but still around 35 local folk turned up and it was a cracking night with music provided by guitarist Paul Rose from Newcastle and famous for playing with lots of well known bands and the wonderful buffet went down well. Thanks Gayle and Dave.

Myself with Paul Rose

It was great to catch up with the locals and find out what was happening in the valley. Chatting about tractors, especially the MF 5713s which will be the next new tractor in the valley and one I will have to brush up on the specs, and the weather of course etc etc. and the campsite which has taken a bit of a hit this year due to the poor management at the pub. Hopefully when the pub opens again in a few weeks time things will pick up.

The weather during the weekend was pretty foul, very windy, snowy squalls, heavy rain showers and sun. All seasons in one day.

It wasn't particularly hiking weather and although I had hoped to do a least one walk up top, due to the trifecta of outdoor evils I decided that caution was preferable to rash bravery and so even though Sunday started well we went for a lower walk.

From the Duddon Valley we could see the snow covered tops of the Crinkles, Bow Fell and the Scafell range, they looked cold and uninviting and clagging over for most of the time.  Locally, there was very little snow except at the very tops but the wind was vicious.

We went up to Seathwaite tarn and across the dam to the north side of the water. It was bitter cold. I stopped on the dam to take a short video which lasted about 1 minute before my fingers were numb.
The reservoir outlet into tarn beck was blowing backwards before re-cycling.

We spotted two people heading up the hillside towards Grey Frier. I didn't envy them today and we returned back down by the tarn road.

Here are some photos of the walk.

 The Park Head Road was in bad shape.

 White Pike Centre, Dow Crag left

Dow Crag right of centre with Grey Friar left of centre.

 The Scafells at the back with Hardknott in the middle ground.

 Harter Fell from Crag Band.

 One of my favourite views of Harter Fell, The foreground area is called Black Allens and I always get a feeling of life here thousands of years ago. I don't know why I feel that way but it happens every time I visit here.

 Seathwaite Tarn from the dam end.

 A Black and White view.

Tarn Beck

Topo Aquaventure 2 trail shoe 200km review.

Way back in 2019, well November 24th to be exact, I purchased pair of the Topo trail shoes. (click Here).
It was my first pair of these and reviews were a bit thin on the ground so I took a bit of a chance buying them 'cos they weren't cheap by any stretch of the imagination.

Well the 200km came and just went. Its took me a while but I got there eventually.

Most of the walks I have done in them are short walks with nothing over 15km and not carrying a backpack. I have carried quite a weighty daypack though but I haven't run in them.
The walking has been very mixed and so has the weather. The majority of terrains has been coastal paths, land rover type tracks and canal towpaths. A couple of walks were over moorland with rough tussocks, boggy in parts.

Weather wise, apart from deep snow I have been out in everything but. The performance of the tread pattern has been exceptional except where rocks are smooth and wet. Under these conditions they do slip, but I guess no worse than any other trail shoe would, on any other terrain, excellent.

For me, the important thing was dry feet and I have no complaints here. The eVent liner has been brilliant in keeping my feet dry but they can cause a little damp with condensation. It wasn't a problem though. It's wise to wear a short gaiter with the trail shoes for obvious reasons. Water ingress cannot get out and also small stones and rough or sharp grasses can damage the liner.
On the down side, the shoe has designed into the heel a pair of lugs for attaching Topo gaiter clips. On my shoes the "plastic" around the lug is starting to detach. I haven't even used Topo gaiters so I would expect the heel cup would probably start to pull away with regular use of them.

Photo showing plastic lug (above the red logo) starting to detach.

With the outer having no stitching the shoes are fantastically easy to clean after your hike, they don't stain in peaty ground either and they dry very very fast. They are perfect in this respect.

The laces grip very well and I have had no faffing about having to stop and re-fasten the shoe.

After only a couple of walks I changed the insole for a better quality one, a little firmer. Not the type like Superfeet but just a scholl one. However, I was starting to dislike the amount of room in the toe box. Even though I have wide feet I was finding the support around my toes was lacking and I felt my foot slipping inside the shoe on occasions.

Eventually, I changed the insole again, to a Gel type which reduced the amount of space in the toe box and I found this better but not perfect. In hindsight I wished I had tried a shoe half a size smaller. It might or might not resolve the issue. I haven't come across a half size shoe as yet to try it out.

The heel and top of the foot support is very good and I had no problems here. When walking on gravel tracks you don't feel any stones through the mid sole.

There is some wear showing on the heel cuff material which I must say is disappointing but apart from that no significant wear on the shoe itself, in fact after 200km they don't look very much different from Day 1.

Really unacceptable wear on the heel cuff material for a shoe in this price range and the most disappointing quality in my opinion.. The worst part of the shoe. These are only 2 months old.

above 3 photo's showing very little wear on the heel, toe or outer fabric, excellent.

Although these shoes are not perfect I'm sure I will get quite a few miles out of them. 

I give them 7/10.

Would I buy them again? Well only if the heel cuff material is changed to be more durable, for example on Keen shoes.